Sunday, December 16, 2007

SUMMER DELIGHTS – Mangoes – King of Fruits

My first memories of mangoes is watching one of my younger brothers tumbling off our mango tree, knocking himself out, much to the consternation of my mother. Her tears stopped when he suddenly groggily stood up asking, ‘Is wa happn?” (What happened?). Those mangoes of my childhood, as ordinary as they might have been, still remain the sweetest in memory.
We all, brothers and sisters, used to climb the tree sitting at various forks, angles and heights when mango was in season. My grandmother used to warn us girls that we should not climb the tree when it was bearing fruit as we would make the fruits sour. Since we thought this was one of the dumbest excuses to prevent us from having fun, we just used to wait until she was out of sight to clamber up the tree and sit where she could not see us. We picked and ate the young hard green ones dipped in salt and pepper grains held in our palms, making sussurating sounds of chilly seasoned mouths. We ate the half ripe ones out of greed and sucked the seeds out of the over ripe ones with juices dripping down our forearms.
That was long ago on the wonderful breezy coast of the South American continent. Now over fifty years later in India, near the foothills of the Himalayas, I don’t try to climb the mango trees in our yard, but I have the same delight watching my grand daughters do that. I think they make the fruits sweeter.
We delight in the summer atmosphere redolent with the aromas of this favorite tropical fruit. There are so many varieties that I would not waste time trying to name or describe them. Each tropical place has its own flavors and varieties native to its country. In our yard we have several trees that take turns giving fruit. So at least we have one tree every year whose fruits we can enjoy.
Mangoes come in diverse sizes from those too large to hold in one hand to those small enough to fit in the palms of a toddler. In colors they vary from blushing reds, to saffron bright yellows to olive green. The colors do not necessarily determine the sweetness of the fruit, except reds and yellows always indicate ripeness.
Mangoes are such a popular fruit that there are restaurants and resorts named after them. Fortunately for Americans, the 18 year old ban on import of Indian mangoes into the US has now been lifted. Someone in India tried to mail her friend in the US a box of mangoes from South India but was refused export permission as only commercial shipments are allowed at this time. Hopefully in time to come, we will be able not only to buy Indian mangoes in the US, but to gift them from India.
The mango fruit is not the only part of the mango tree that we enjoy. Traditionally people string the green leaves on thread and hang this as a decoration on the front door of a new home. For opening a new business sometimes will be seen a peculiar ménage of one red hot chilly pepper stuck to a yellow lemon with green mango leaves sewn into it. This strange composition of fruits and leaves, hangs from the top of the front door of any new shop or store. We assume that this is to ward off the evil eye, but it also looks like a good scare for bugs and insects. The young green leaves are used as spoons in ritual blessing. The stem of the leaf is turned into the top of the leaf to form a loop, used as a handle while dipping into holy water and sprinkling for blessings to the new-born, birthday celebrants and for other rituals at home and at the temples. Dried twigs are sometimes used in the Vedic fire ritual ‘homa’, where pine or sandalwood is unavailable. The bark of the tree is used for dyeing clothes into a soft cream color. This usually leaves a subtle fragrance on the cloth.
At the entrance of villages in most of rural India a large mango tree will provide a welcoming shade for travelers. A round concrete seat surrounds the bottom of the tree, called a ‘chabutera’. Village meetings, panchayats, festivals give honor to this most receptive area throughout the year. I have always marveled at the mango farms we encounter on our road trips. When you look into these orchards you will be amazed at the symmetry of the heights from the ground to the lowest branches. They are always the same. The shapes of mango trees vary from regular triangles to hemisphere like shapes. When these are blossoming the cream colored blooms seem to form a glowing halo around the half orbs of leaves and the scent is indescribable.
Mango is high in Vitamin A, eaten with food as dessert it supposedly is good for promoting the hemoglobin in blood. The inner bark boiled with the skin of the mango is said to be good for blood flow. There are many other Ayurvedic uses for the different parts of this wonderful tree.
There are many recipes available for both green and ripe mangoes. There are chutneys, pickles, jams, drinks, ice creams and a variety of delights. I recently had a mango tart with the mango pulp artistically decorating the tart piped out of an icing tube. Umm, was that delicious?


Simple Recipe for Mango Lassi

Ingredients: The pulp of one ripe mango, equal amount of plain yogurt, some sugar to taste.
Method: Blend ingredients adding crushed ice. If the mango fruit is not available, use the canned pulp available in Indian stores. For vegans, use soygurt. It is advised not to have too much mango, as mango has a heating effect Ayurvedically.
Enjoy!!

Monday, October 22, 2007

FINGER LICKIN’ GOOD

I was feeding my fifteen month old grand daughter the other day when I realized I was actually using my fingers to mix her rice, dal (lentils) and veggies to feed her. Since it is my habit to wash hands before coming to the dinner table, I was happy that I had remembered to do that. I think I started using my fingers, when she tossed her spoon on the plastic floor covering to hear the bang it made. Babies love to do that much to the annoyance of parents, and amusement of grandparents.
But then it seemed so natural to use my fingers to feed her as she just kept popping open her tiny mouth for me to put the little balls of food in. She herself loves to scoop up food with her hand and toss it into her mouth, even if there is a baby spoon provided. Sometimes later when we insist on the use of the spoon she will pick it up and try to feed herself. But when she is very hungry she completely ignores the spoon. Her natural instinct is to use her hands.
The spoon use seems like an evolutionary development and we never force its use. In many parts of the world fingers are still considered the best implements for getting food into the mouth. Each culture that regards this method as the most natural has developed its own etiquettes that accompany this sort of dining.
On the Indian subcontinent where I spend a lot of time, the majority of the population that resides in the villages, eat their meals with fingers. Tools such as spoons, forks and knives, the cutlery of the urbanites are mostly not known. In some northern regions, spoons are used for liquid foods, like soups and dals. In the south even for liquid sambaar that accompanies most dishes like idli (steamed rice cakes), dosai (pancakes made from rice flour) or even plain rice, a spoon is hardly necessary as the liquid sambaar is soaked up in these rice dishes. But the rules for eating with the fingers are just as strict like rules for not using fingers.
When using the fingers for carrying food to the mouth, only fingers of the right hand are to be used. The left hand is NEVER used for eating. There is a good reason for this, but is not subject for this article. One may serve oneself for seconds by using a serving spoon with the left hand. Food should not touch the hands, as the fingers scoop up bits to put into the mouth. In some families, licking the fingers is a signal to the host that the meal was really enjoyed.
Another taboo is food that has been eaten from or contaminated by saliva is never shared with another. In the north this is referred to as “juthaa” and in the south as “eschil”. This is probably a good health habit. I remember my horror when I was offered a bitten-into apple by a friend when I first arrived to live in the US. Not wanting to hurt feelings, I carefully bit the other un-eaten side. But like all rules, this one has an exception. Sometimes one may notice two persons sharing the same plate or thaali (a steel round plate) that is normally used in Indian homes. This would either be a husband and wife or very close friends. Sometimes a mother-in-law the matriarch of the extended family would invite her daughter-in-law to share her plate, to show acceptance or to make up after some disagreement.
In the yoga tradition this sort of subliminal sharing is not encouraged. This is considered as sharing of sanskaars “impressions on the psyche”. This custom is considered to be interfering with the fulfillment of one’s own karmic acts. It is true we are born within certain families to achieve our destinies linked with the relationships within that family. There are many things shared already within those experiences. The whole aim of being born is to purify as much as possible our human tainted qualities and realize our divine nature. So the less we pile up unnecessary sanskaars, the quicker we get there. Hence the less the sanskaars are intertwined the less external inputs influence the psyche.
It is important to create the kind of atmosphere at home that encourages the child to develop within the parameters of the philosophy of that particular family. Outside the home it is difficult to know what impressions the young is receiving, in the neighborhood, in schools, from friends, from the environment. So whatever we can do at home to steer the child into the “right” sanskaars is very important.
Etiquettes of living at home include the training and behavior in all aspects of life. Rules of dining are naturally part of these. Family dining together at least once a day is an excellent way for these habits to be practiced whether it is the correct way to use the fingers to break chapattis, which is the correct salad fork, or how to use chopsticks gracefully. I know a guy who was trained in boarding school in England, married a girl who was trained both in America and in India. It is wonderful to see their children at home in all these continents with the flexible ability and ease to use fingers for dosais (rice pancakes) knives and forks for English meals and even chopsticks for noodles.

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Here’s a recipe for chapattis:

Ingredients: One cup chapatti flour or whole wheat flour, some warm water. Mix these into a soft dough (like bread dough) and leave to rise for about an hour.

Method: Roll out into flat rounds somewhat like tortillas and cook on a griddle or hot pan. Flip over when little bubbles start to appear and cook other side. Stack them in a clean kitchen towel, after rubbing some butter or olive oil on them to keep them soft.
These may be eaten like tortillas with cheese, or with curried veggies. Enjoy!

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Green Grass on the other side

( From my journal March 21st 2007)

I witnessed something today and I don’t know what adjectives to use to describe the episode – funny maybe also sad in a way. I was taking my usual morning walk in the front garden, when my attention was attracted by some noises emerging from the neighbor’s wall edging the pathway leading to our gate.
Let me add that the neighbor is an unknown element as the previous owner had sold her property last year, and we have no idea who has bought it. No one seems to live there, except a guard. There used to be a cow in the backyard, but she is gone together with some mango trees that grew there.
On hearing the noises, I looked up to see two village women sitting atop the pillar of the concrete boundary wall. They did not immediately see me as their attention seemed to be riveted on something in the backyard. I shouted “hello” to them to get their attention. They turned towards me and I saw that one had a sickle and one had a small bundle of rope. “What are you two doing up there perched so precariously on that itty bitty pillar?” I asked. One stood up to get a better look at me, and said, “Look at all this beautiful, lush, green grass just lying there useless. Soon it will become all brown in the sun.” “Yes,” said the other woman, “All we want to do is just go down there and save someone the trouble of having to cut the grass by cutting it ourselves. See how thick and green it is!”
Well of course I could not see the fat, plump grass, but I was completed amazed at their description of grass, as I had never thought of it before in those terms. But I suppose when you have cows to feed, you see it from the cows’ point of view. Now every time I see village women with grass bundles on their heads, I will have greater respect for grass.
To continue I advised the desperate women that before they jump unto the lush lawn they should check with the guard. They said, “Yes, we did go to the front of the house first, and shouted Bhai, Bhai (Brother, brother) but there was no one there.” The guard was probably off for his morning stroll or tea at the wayside teashop. They continued, “So we thought we would just go ahead and cut the grass.”
I did not agree with this foolhardy idea as the male guard would appear anytime and who could tell the consequences.
While they sat there still pondering their bad luck, I sent my own guard out to advise them against any precipitous grass cutting incident. It seems he finally managed to convince them to abandon this venture. Maybe if they had waited the guard would have returned, but it was morning which is grass gathering time and cows don’t wait for their meals. They start a regular concert of moos.
I felt really sorry for them for they eventually left, but I also admired them for not giving in to a necessary temptation and for educating me on the quality and value of grass.
(Actually I think if it was me I would have gone and cut the grass, so what if the guard appeared, I had a sharp sickle with me and there were two of us.)

(c)2007

Tuesday, October 9, 2007

GRACE BEFORE MEALS

Our hardworking Webmaster asked me for an Indian recipe for this website and instead we decided on a Food Column. We hope to take our readers on many exciting and tasty food journeys through many lands, cuisines and recipes.
At the very start as Grace before Meals, let me introduce to you one of the most beautiful statues I have ever seen of the Goddess of Food, Her Grace Annapurna. The statue that accompanies this article was presented to Swami Veda Bharati at the recent elaborate celebrations of his sixty years of global service in yoga and meditation. These were held at the Swami Rama Sadhaka Grama Ashram in Risihikesh, and it was gifted to him by the Mrs. Meera Swami from Malaysia. The Goddess Annapurna was chosen by her in recognition of Swami Veda’s help and guidance to women’s organizations and also his love of serving tasty dishes to whoever comes in his presence.
It is almost three feet high is of a lovely creamy color and crafted from the inner core of the banana plant. It is incredibly detailed art work and I have seen many statues, but this excels in craft, in beauty and in its ornate presentation. When I gaze upon the remarkable face of the Goddess, I am transformed into the devotee who wants to sit and be absorbed into her generous nature forever.
Annapurna is the Goddess not only of abundant food, but unending, everlasting. If you want to be able to distinguish her from the many other graceful and lovely female aspects of the universal spirit, then look for her with a bowl filled with food in her left hand and a spoon also spilling over with Prasad in her right hand ready to serve her willing and hungry captives. “Prasad” is that which has been offered to the deity before being eaten by devotees. Any gift from the Goddess is Prasad.
Before we are worthy of receiving this Prasad, we say Grace before meals. As is quoted in Bhagvad Gita, “Anyone who eats without first offering, eats stolen food.” My grandmother not only used to offer to the gods, but she used to take the first roti (Indian flat bread) cooked in the kitchen, break it into tiny pieces and throw them out to the birds, before she even let us touch or taste any food.
In all faiths it is an accepted fact to say Grace. Children should be taught to take those few minutes’ pause to sit, relax, savor and anticipate a good dinner, by first saying thanks. The gods don’t really need thanks from us it is we who need to remember to develop the ability to be grateful.
One of the most common prayers said in homes and ashrams worldwide is as follows:
Om Brahmar panam, Brahma Havih, Brahma Agnau, Brahmana Hutam, Brahmaivatena Gantavyam, Brahma Karma Samadhinam. Om Vishvatma Priyatam. Om Tat Sat Brahmar Panamastu. Om shantih, shantih, shantih.
This offering is to God. God is the offering. God is the fire (which consumes the food). God alone is the one to whom the offering is made. When experienced in Samadhi, all this action is of God. Om. May the universal spirit be satisfied. Om alone is that Truth. Peace.
This pause for Grace not only is good for the consumers of delicious dishes. It gives the cook, mother, father or whoever a few precious moments to also relax, take a few breaths after the heat in the kitchen, to truly enjoy a hearty meal cooked with love and in peace.

It is really strange that the first article for this Food Corner is being written during the period called the Navratra in this part of the country, the period of nine days of intense fasting. However, while strict fasting is observed by the fastidious, one may bend the rules and take liquids or fruit. There are also special types of food allowed for the fasting person that go with the change of the season. All well thought out and balanced.

I promised Dan I would attach a recipe to each article, so here’s one for Prasad. This recipe is one that is more peculiar to North India. It is called Halvaa.

Ingredients: 1 cup (any size) suji (semolina or cream of wheat), half a cup (same size) butter, ghee (or if you’re vegan, then any soya substitute), 1 cup brown sugar, 3 cups of water ( or 2 cups milk , soya millk or any other kind of milk, and one cup water), some crushed cardamoms, dash of essence (preferably rose or almond), half a cup of soaking raisins, some slivered almonds (not if you’re allergic to nuts).
Method: Mix the sugar in the liquid and put on very low heat just to melt the sugar and stay warm. Brown the suji with the crushed cardamoms in a wok on medium heat. When its fragrance is obvious, add the butter and mix well. Drain the water from the raisins and keep ready. Slowly pour the warm syrupy water into this mixture and stir vigorously with a long handled wooden spoon. While stirring make sure that no small lumps are allowed to form.
Wear long mitts or gloves as it will spatter and burn your arms. As the mixture starts to thicken, add the raisins, keep stirring until all liquid is absorbed and the mixture takes on a rich and soft doughy texture. Remove into a dish and garnish with the slivered almonds. This dish takes very little time to prepare and makes an excellent dessert.
For special occasions of celebrations, this is now ready for offering before eating, then from Halvaa it is transformed into delicious Prasad. Enjoy!


March 2007.

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Ammaji